} I'm still getting a major amount of condensation in that
} oil filler can causing lots of milky goo (oil and coolant
} are clean). I cleaned out the insides with gumout, and
} it appears to be clear, however, when I take it out I
} see LOTS of vapor coming out of the oil filler hole.
} Any clues as to where this comes from and under what
} cicumstances that by-pass valve is supposed to be
} open?
Hmmmm, I've been experiencing this too with my 142. At first I was a bit concerned that it was due to a cracked block/warped head. But, since the rest of the oil didn't become contaminated, I attributed it to the water condensing out of the air as the temperature oscillated between freeze and thaw during the mornings and night.
/\ Lawrence Buja Climate and Global Dynamics Division
\_][ southern@ncar.ucar.edu National Center for Atmospheric Research
\_________________________Boulder,_Colorado___80307-3000__________
[ Changing the timing (more adv.) can clear up the condensate, tFD]
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|> The product is called Motor Flush. I beleive it is basically Kerosene.
|> You ad a pint and idle you engine for 5 min. then change the oil.
I'd like to share a little experience with you all that I had with one of these products. I owned a 1979 Volvo 265 GL wagon with 180,000 miles on it. It had been well maintained by both previous owners and myself. I noticed during oil changes that I was getting small pieces of junk draining from the pan, so I decided it was time to flush the motor.
I used the engine flush (forget which brand) according to the instructions. Wow, did I ever get some crap out of that engine! Anyway, two days later we're driving down the road and my oil pressure goes completely bye bye followed immediately by the sad sound of a seizing engine. According to my (trustworthy) mechanic, in all likelihood some of the crap I dislodged had stuck in the oil pathways and strangled my poor little 6 cylinder. ;-(
Lest ye skeptics dismiss this as an isolated incident, I was relating this story to a friend who had a high mileage Ford van (full size). He said, "Bummer, same thing happened to my van. I had to rebuild the engine."
While the product may be good for relatively low mileage motors, no way in hell will I ever put it into a high mileage engine again.
Kenneth Finnegan
My little slogan about motor flush is:
"If you need it, don't use it."
After all, if your engine has been maintained well, you shouldn't have so much sludge that it affects the engine in any way.
What works for me is either:
Run two very quick lightweight oil changes through it (like straight 20w HIGH detergent oil). Like 500 miles each change and then back to what you plan on using.
or
With the engine hot and OFF, drain the oil and then put the oil plug back in. Fill the engine up to the valve covers with kerosene. Go have a beer. Then drain the kerosene and have it disposed of properly. Put your new oil and filter in and drive to the store to get more beer. Then pull back in the garage (don't drink and drive) and drain that oil and fill it again with fresh oil (I don't bother putting another new filter on since I'm cheap). Put that hardly used oil into your winter beater or have it recycled.
I've done this on lots of cars with no problems. It really helped clean up my Bertone's V6 bottom end, but I should mention I took the pan off after the first rinse cycle since it's easy on that engine. It's not on the 4cyl's.
Keep in mind that this engine was/is a very dirty engine due to bad maintainence, and MAYBE I was lucky I didn't clog any passages that weren't already clogged, but there's less of a chance this way compared to running that MOtor Flush crap for 5 minutes and circulating it.
Another point: I got, and expected, many engine oil leaks after doing this. I knew I'd be replacing the seals so it didn't bother me, but if you don't expect it then don't do this to a cruddy engine, just use a few frequent oil changes.
Michael
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I recieved literature from Ross Converse at Converse Carversions. He is selling a kit to install a Ford v8 into your 200 series Volvo.
He writes :
"Hi! Thanks for writing. The kit is designed for the Ford 5.0 EFI motor but a carb engine can be used, but you'll be on your own. (I've done a carp engine swap 4-years ago and can give some pointers) A diesel automatic body or a V6 auto body is preferrend in that order."
Price for the kit is $700.
In addition to the kit you must supply the following parts :
Engine : 1986 200 HP 5.0 Mustang or 1987-92 225 HP 5.0 or any 302 non-FI moto, preferably from a Fox chassis Ford (Fairmont,Zephyr,Thunderbird,Granada,Cougar,LTD,Marquis, Mustang,Capri). Try to get one with an A/C if you want air in your Volvo.
Transmission : AOT or AOD automatic transmission (4-speed overdrive auto) from a v8 car.
Ford parts : ECU (brain) with power relay <BR>
MAP sensor and vacuum tree from firewall <BR>
Mass airflow sensor with ducting <BR>
Air injection and EGR solenoids from right side of firewall <BR>
Oxygen sensors from exhaust pipes <BR>
Flex-plate flywheen with bolts and large dirtshield behind flywheel <BR>
Ford motor mounts <BR>
Two exhaust manifolds <BR>
Engine wiring harness <BR>
Air pump tube <BR>
Coil and solenoid <BR>
Ford alternator, startor, <BR>
A/C compressor, <BR>
P/S pump<BR>
power steering hose<BR>
alternator plugs<BR>
a/c hoses<BR>
ford rear tranny mount<BR>
mustang cables, bracket, lever<BR>
a driveshaft<BR>
electric fan<BR>
air cleaner box<BR>
transmission dipstick and tube<BR>
He quotes an installed price of $3300 (at his shop), btw. just passing this info along. I'm thinking about a v8 as a stablemate for my 264.
tim
Hi Folks!
I've recently received this information from Frank of Group 6 Performance in Tucson, AZ (602) 749-1809. Thought it might be of interest to some of you (I found it quite interesting, myself). I quote the source (Frank) below. If you want further info, however, please get in touch with him; not me, for what appears below is all that I have to share:
".....you might even be interested in the new kit I am developing. I am putting a fuel injected 5 liter Ford V8 with overdrive automatic trans in a 7 series Volvo. I am offering do-it-yourself kits, complete conversions and turn-key automobiles. The cost for a completed car can be as low as $7,500. 0 to 60 times less than 6 seconds and 27 mpg highway.
60 MPH cruise = 1900 RPM."
Sounds like, with other appropriate systems (suspension/tires, for one), this might be suitable for autoXing.
"Erjan"
I have done a couple of these swaps. I had little experience and did it by myself in my Dad's woodshed with a chain hoist. First Volvo I owned had suspension (bilstiens/swaybars/wheels) and stock 4 cyl. Granny rear ended me at a light going 55mph. Walked away. Got insurance, swapped suspension from first 240 into another $1900 240 and started there.
Started collecting parts, ordered converse carversions kit. Three months and alot of frustration and learning later car was driving. Year to the day after first wreck, waiting at light on same stretch of hwy 36 outside Corvallis OR. Elderly gentleman in early 70's pontiac station wagon coming in other direction has heart attack, grabs chest floors accelerator and plows into Nissan sentra and my volvo simultaneously (again about 55mph). I walked away again, not so with sentra occupants. Bought third (present) '78 242, put V-8 and suspension in(took 3 days this time) it and have driven it about 2 years now.
Answers to common ?'s
-Car is a 5-speed, bone stock '87 speed density 5.0L. Ford , rated at 225 h.p. and 310 ft. lb. torque.
-Weight: (Volvo tranny cast iron case, T-5 Ford tranny alum. case) Total weight 2900lb. wet rear axle: about 1350 lb. front axle: about 1550 lb. -Acceleration: (open rear,205/50/15 BFG Comp TA's) (Went to dragstrip once for fun.) 1/4 mi: 14.5 sec. at 98 m.p.h 0-60mph: sub 6.0 sec. rear end ratio: 3.90:1 -Handling: Get 1.125" front sway bar from IPD, 1" rear, Bilstiens, springs, upgrade wheel/tire combo per wallet size. The car handles very well for a street car, very moderate understeer with applied throttle oversteer, its not a nose heavy feel but its not a Lotus Elan. Don't do this with a stock suspension, do suspension first. The swap: Motor mounts: I used the ones in the converse kit, they go from stock mounting points to the bolts holding the front crossmember to unibody.Ford 5.0 mounts go on 45 degree angle of this piece. Trans. mount: Use Volvo crossmember, move rear bolt holes to front position, bolt them in. Put new holes through floor and secure front of crossmember to box section. Bolt tab on crossmember to mount T-5 mount to. Drive Shaft: Stick with the carrier bearing, use conversion U-joint Good time for a driveline shop. Exhaust: I used the 5.0 stainless headers, driver side fit, pass. side had to cut off flange of stock header and weld downpipe on, now have about 1" clearance.
Anyway, thats about it, (oh yeah, go with a 240 diesel radiator). If you are considering this, and have no experience a kit isn't a bad idea, but don't expect much from them and don't believe it when they claim the kit takes care of all. Look for crate motors from Ford motosports (alum. heads etc.), go for a 5.0 Ford explorer front dress(1.5" shorter).
If you are seriously involved with anyone (i.e. spouse) get their permission first. If you don't enjoy this sort of thing don't start or have someone else do it. The end result however, is very cool. Good luck.
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Some time ago I listed all of the possible causes of cam shaft wear in the 6 cylinder Volvos, as found in the Volvo literature. I listed "Gas in the Oil" as a possible cause, but had no idea how gas would get there. Well, yesterday I had a chance to talk to someone about how gas could get in your oil:
1) Ruptured diaphragm in mechanical fuel pump. Six-cylinder Volvos have electrical fuel pumps, so this is not pertinent, but I thought it was interesting.
2) Leaking and/or fouled injector. If an injector is sufficiently fouled, it will not atomize the gas well. This will build up liquid gas in the ports, which will run down the cylinder walls when the valve opens, and end up in the oil. The other side effect of this is that the oil film on the cylinder walls is washed away by the gas, leading to blowby and cylinder/piston ring wear.
3) Over-rich mixture. Some of the unburned gas will wind up condensing on the cylinder walls, diluting the oil.
4) Missing or crossfiring. See #3, above.
So far, the moral of the story is, if you let your six-cylinder get out of tune, you could end up with worse problems than poor fuel economy.
Anybody have any other ideas to add to this list?
Quick aside: The Volvo manual recommends checking for oil in the water, rather than water in the oil as a sign of a blown head gasket. I'd have thought water in the oil was an earlier indicator.
Rick
P.S. No, my car does not have gas in the oil, I'm just trying to complete my "Why your cams are shot" list.
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This weekends knuckle-bleeder was replacing the engine mounts on my '80 240. I recently did the same job on my '75, and picked up one trick I thought I'd pass along.
An engine mount is a piece of of hard rubber with a bolt attached to each end. The bolts attach to brackets, one at the top and one at the bottom. The top bracket then bolts into the side of the engine block and the bottom bracket bolts into the front axle member. The trick is to unbolt the mount from the front axle member FIRST (3 17mm bolts on the underside of the member.) Then jack up that side of the car (taking the weight of the member), then jack up the engine (don't put the jack under the oil pan or you'll dent it - put the jack back by the transmission.) Jacking up the engine like this lifts the mount out of the front axle. Now unbolt the top mount from the block, and remove the mount, brackets and all. Put the new mount in the brackets, bolt the top bracket to the block, and lower the engine till the lower bracket fits in the axle member (it may take a bit of tugging to get it to fit in.) Then lower the car, bolt up the lower mount you're done.
The dumb way to do it is to try to detach the mount directly from the brackets, leaving the brackets attached to the block and frame. A variant dumb method involves unbolting the top but not the bottom bracket. I've spent a lot of time, knuckle-skin, and blood investigating these various dumb methods and maybe a wizard can replace the mounts that way, but I sure can't. If you detach the bottom mount first, it's a 40 minute job, max.
- Jim
Herm brings up a good point about the motor mounts.
The one thing I've noticed about Volvo's, both 200 and 700's, is that a bad motor mount can give you LOTS of grief in resultant problems appearing if you let it go for long.
A bad motor mount puts stress on the transmission mount which allows the drive-shaft to vibrate, screwing up your center bearing carrier and the bearing itself. THen your u-joints.
On the 700's, you will eat up the rubber coupler on the drive shaft and that peice ain't cheap.
When the engine shakes on acceleration and stopping, you stress the transmission cooling lines and the exhaust system.
It's amazing how one $20.00 can cause about $600 worth of long term damage.
It's too bad 240's are being phased out. THey are certainly the ultimate utility car. I'd really like to buy one new and maintain it from scratch since I'm convinced any of us could make them last till 300k easily. Talk about getting your moneys worth.
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Water pump replacement is really no big deal, however, there are a few tips that make it go smoother.
1. Get an extra gasket kit if you are doing this when the Volvo parts dept. is not open. The top seal is reasonably easy to rip.
2. Get the copper gasket sealant (I think it is permatex brand).
3. Use it on the top seal where it contacts the water pump.
4. Liberally spread Vaseline on the top seal where it contacts the head.
5. After putting all the bolts in loosely, get a big screwdriver and shove the water pump up against the head.
6. Then push it all the way back against the block, and tighten (this is why the top seal needs to be lubricated).
7. Any time the tension is removed from the bearing, it should be replaced (is this really necessary? Given that it is not particularly easy to replace, I don't know) (I'm talking about the tensioner bearing for the cam belt).
8. All this applies to the B21.
roman
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To reseat the new oil seal, Volvo reccommends using what looks like a special tool that is as thick as the seal is, round as the seal, and deep enough to just properly put the seal in around the shaft.
The trick here is to get the seal going in "straight", and then to apply even pressure all around the seal as it is slowly tapped in.
I've done it before with an empty Princess Sweet potato can as the special tool. What you want to do is match the seal against your canned goods bin for the correct sized can, eat the food, then use the can with a 2x4 block across the back to press and then tap the seal in. The trick is to not tap too far-referring to the manual, and making sure you inspect the old seal before removal to see how far the last mechanic went will get you the correct results.
Any questions, just email.
Val
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On Apr 27, 4:56pm, Jay Edward Sparks wrote:
} I was just informed that cam wear is a concern in some models.
} My friend claims that the lobes have a hard material on the surface,
} once that wears through the cams go flat in a hurry.
} Does anyone know more? like which models and what to do
} if yours is among those?
I know of two models with "cam" problems.
One group of cam problems is associated with B18/B20 family pushrod motors used from 62-75 on a wide variety of problems. The factory suggests that you adjust the valves every 6000 miles, many B18/20's are always noisy up top. There seems to be a serious problem with the iron camshafts sold for high performance use by IPD. I can think of three or four circumstances where well maintained motors ate cam lobes in very short order.
The second model with famous cam problems is the french B27/28 family motors fitted to 260 and 760 series cars (76-90). In this case, it is really the rockers which wear abnormally quickly in an undermaintained motor. When the rockers have worn substantially, they begin to chew up the cams. This motor is very complex, very few mechanics will rebuild one.
The cam problem on the B18/20 is a materials problem - inadequately hardened camshafts.
The cam/rocker problem on a B27/28 is a lubrication problem - the oil passages to the rockers get plugged. The cams and rockers are a very high grade steel, and are induction hardened.
tim
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Andre'
> lately. A year or so ago it did it once. At the time I figured the
> Air mass sensor had failed (if you un plug it it goes into lip-home mode, and itit seems very simmilar to how the car was behaving). I had my "trusted"
> mechanic check it out
> 's, but I could barely get it up to 4000 RPM's. The speed dropped
> from 60 something to 40 MPH. I wasn't worried about not getting
> home, but it was not a pleasant experience.
Sorry to hear that. I had kind of a similar problem on our 745T last year. We were on our way to a family barbecue with wife, baby, my brother, niece and nephew in the car. About 2 miles from home, all of a sudden, the car lost power. I was able to restart it but it won't idle. Then the same story, I tried to gain speed by slowly letting the car gain RPM. ..... We limped home very slowly....
After a compression check, the 4 cylinders read:
(0, 0, 50, 120 lbs)
Well, the B230FT had a blown head gasket between 1st and 2nd cylinder. Worst, the head had a melt-down where the head gasket was blown. I think if I didn't try to limped it home, it might suffer less demage. Also, the 3rd cylinder had a crack exhaust valve. We limped home with one and a half cylinders.
We bought this car at 120K miles and the engine call it quits at 125K miles. I think the previous owners did change oil and let the turbo idle down but they used the junkiest gas.
After some more inspection, I found the 1st and 2nd piston had a lot of movements (lose pins). I bought a rebuilt engine from the local Volvo dealer. They delivered it in 2 days.
So, I would suggest a compression check first. Check for electrical stuffs like ignition cables, plugs (right plug and right heat range), cap and rotor (for cracks), ignition timing.
Good Luck
Alfred
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Douglas:
[replacing the exhaust gaskets on a B230FT]
No, I am not chuckling. Anytime I have to deal with the exhaust side, there are always some rusted out bolts or seized out nuts that I can't get out.
I remembered that I had to use all my small wrenches and sockets (1/4" drive for the real hard to reach nuts) to remove the exhaust manifold nuts. Some of them are real pain to get at.
I don't know if you can move the exhaust manifold back enough to install new gaskets without disconnecting the turbo oil lines and exhaust pipe/catalytic converter. I was pulling the dead engine out. I just took everything out. Double check this, If you have to do both, you might want to disconnect the exhaust pipe/catalytic converter to turbo connection first. Don't forget to support the catalytic converter, it's heavy.
Remove the 2 oil lines. After the 2 turbo oil lines are out; plug all the holes so junks can't get in. I would get new gaskets and the rubber seal ring for the oil lines.
Remove the manifold nuts. The manifold/turbo unit is heavy, real heavy, be careful not to drop it on the fender.
I used anti-seize on all the exhaust hardware.
Good Luck
Alfred
> Howdy Volvovians!
> I have decided to try and replace all the gaskets and bolts/nuts involved
> on the exhaust manifold/turbo side of my '88 760t (100k miles) hoping that
> doing this will solve my 'push lawnmower' sound eminating from the rear of the
> engine.
> I have never taken on such a procedure and though I have no doubts that I can
> do it, I am worried that I won't be able to do it 'right' the FIRST time.
> do I hear chuckles from the group? huh? If anyone would be gracious to briefly state any items that they have learned from experience I would be very
> gratefull. I have the Haynes manual and it seems to be quite cut and dry
> I just want to know WHERE and WHEN I should but ANTI-SEIZE *or* ANTI-LOCK
> fluids... and if I should replace anything else particular at the same time?
> I'm also worried that i'll need some special crow-foot wrenches or something
> else?
> unfortunately I'm at work and must go now...
> thanks again... -douglas dibella
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> Volvo's hottest engine (that was produced in any numbers, so
>the B6304 Turbo does not count) is the B204. It's a 2 liter 4 valve
>per cylinder turbo engine. This engine must have been used in
>Europe since I haven't heard of it in the US. The engine has
>an output of 147 kW (200hp), but should be much lighter than
>the B6304.
The B204 is the Italian turbo. I.e, an engine less than 2 litres because the Italian taxes for engines larger than 2 litres. During the thicker walls, Volvo adjusted up the turbo pressure, and installed the turbo plus kit to get the power.
Volvo also has a 5-cyl 2-l engine for the Italian market in 850-series. But I don't know if it's also available with turbo yet.
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Micheal:
Herm pointed it out to me also; You meant the rear engine seal. Well, I did 2 of those also - a 242GT and a 242Turbo. In both cases, I was replacing the clutches for high mileage cars. While the gear box was out, I usually replace everything I can. It was just for safty, they weren't leaky.
Well, they are 4sp/wOD not AW71.
By the way, the 242Turbo's rear seal was replaced last 4th of July weekend. The oil seal I got was black not orange. If you are going to drop the transmission and change the engine seal, be sure you get the lastest version which is black.
For the 740Turbo, I would suggest the following first:
-) There are 2 O-rings inside the distributor. Make sure that the distributor is not dripping oil back there.
-) Check the valve cover gasket near the fire wall.
-) Check the rear portion of the oil pan gasket. You can unbolt the aluminum cover at the rear of the B230T for a better view at the "oily condition" of the pan gasket and the rear seals.
Good Luck
Alfred
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>Phibers:
>Is there an easy way to check motor mounts to see if they are about to
>give up the ghost?
>Joe
with the hood of your car open, find a good place on top of the engine where you can get a firm grip, then push like hell (rock the engine). if the engine moves easily or got a good amount of play, then you need to fix your engine mounts.
The danger of not fixing a faulty engine mount is that the radiator fan could one day hit your radiator costing a lot of $$$.
Jerry
Hello:
1.) It is very hard to test the motor mounts. I checked mine just a month ago and by sheen luck yesterday I noted that it had broken. The test that John Goddard mentioned sounds like the best one.
2.) I changed the motor mount this afternoon. It took me an hour to do it.
3.) I did inspect the broken mount. It looks as if someone had taken a knife and sliced across it. I say this because the test where you rock the engine and wiggle it will not be a reliable way to do it.
4.) To me it seems like the most reliable thing to do will be:
a. Buy a motor mount shield. You can buy it from George at TVK.
It costs only $4.00. The shield is a metal cap that cover the
rubber part.
b. Change the engine mount at certain intervals. The problem is I do not
know what is a good interval.
c. Put attention to the engine mount where the oil filter is. Oil is
a bad enemy of rubber as it weakens it. Also check the trasmission
mount for oil leaks coming from the engine. The tranmissiom mount is
set up so that it collects oil.
5.) In changing the engine mounts I would not suggest that you jack up the engine by the oil pan even though you are using wooden pieces on top of the jack. It is too weak of an area to hold the weight of the engine. I did as several of you suggested. I placed a thick 2x4 piece of wood in the oil pan. The oil pan bent. The other danger is that the oil pump screen sits almost on the bottom of the deep part of the oil pan. My oil pan bent a little but that enough so that you can feel the screen with you fingers (assuming the oil plus plug is out).
Juan Moran
's message of Thu, 07 Oct 1993 12:13:42 -0600 (MDT) <01H3TWXBA7QA8ZEEPB@CUBLDR.Colorado.EDU>
Subject: testing motor mounts
Old motor mounts get spongy and soft. Good ones should be hard and resilient.
Jim
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