From: bcw@mtqua.att.com (b.c.woodbury)
To: att!swedishbricks
Date: 12 May 1993 19:35 EDT
Subject: Pre '76 paint codes
Here is a list of 1975 and pre-1975 paint codes that I pulled out of a 1975 Volvo Accessory Guide.
I did not complete the part numbers for the spray can and wick, I got lazy, If enough people are interested in the part numbers I will complete the table and post it.
It is interesting to note that most of the 1975 colors match-up to a pre-1975 color (see part numbers) except the 1975 colors have a jazzed up name. (Marketing, isn't it wonderful).
Brian Woodbury
att!mtqua!bcw
Note, paint codes 43,45,51,49,50,54 appear multiple times in the table (i.e. These are not my typos, thats how they appear in the literature). Otherwise any other mistakes are probly my typos.
Description Color Code Spray Can Wick Year
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cascade White 42-2 277502-1 283478-6 75
Agean Blue 111-2 282474-6 75
Pacific Blue 96 281070-3 75
Alpine Blue Metallic 108 282486-0 75
Berkshire Green 118-1 283635-1 75
Teton Green 110 282498-5 75
Cumberland Yellow 116-1 283312-7 75
Sierra Orange 113-2 282887-9 75
Caribbean Red 117-1 283318-4 75
Andes Copper Metallic 120-1 283647-6 75
Sahara Beige Metallic 119-1 283641-9 75
Wheel Paint, Silver na 277516-1 75
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Black 19,49,50 Pre75
Midnight Blue 31,45,54 Pre75
Red 43,46,51 Pre75
Grey Beige 43,44,45,49,50,51,54,65 Pre75
Golden Beige 48 Pre75
Olive Green 56,56-1,69,69-1 Pre75
Slate Blue 67,67-1 Pre75
Fawn 72 Pre75
Mist Green 73 Pre75
Pearl White 79,79-1 Pre75
Graphite Grey 80,80-1 Pre75
Golden Yellow 84 Pre75
Light Blue 89 Pre75
Dark Blue 90 Pre75
Light Green 91 Pre75
Dark Green 94 Pre75
Light Blue 95 Pre75
Safari Yellow 97 Pre75
Grey 98 Pre75
Medium Blue 99 Pre75
Yellow 100 Pre75
Pearl Grey 101 Pre75
Blue Metallic 102 Pre75
Maroon 103 Pre75
Turquoise 104 Pre75
Gold Metallic 105 Pre75
Sun Yellow 107 Pre75
Ocean Green 109 Pre75
Dark Blue 114 Pre75
Sea Green Metallic 115 Pre75
Ivory 42 277502-1 Pre75
Dark Blue 96 281070-3 Pre75
Sapphire Blue 108 282486-0 Pre75
Cypress Green 110 282498-5 Pre75
Light Blue Metallic 111 282474-6 Pre75
Orange 113 282887-9 Pre75
Yellow 116 283312-7 Pre75
Dark Red 117 283318-4 Pre75
Wheel Paint, Silver na 277516-1 Pre75
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1993 19:27:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: V093P9MD@ubvmsb.cc.buffalo.edu
Subject: Re: Paint question
To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu
I don't know what the latest cars come with, but I'm willing to bet that it basically the same as when they first started selling clear coat paints back in the early 80's, with the only significant change being the equipment used to spray the paint and the factory blend is more environmentally friendly than what is used by body shops (I'll explain in a minute).
Basically there are two kinds of paint used on Volvo's. A single stage acrylic laquer, and a laquer base/clear coat combo. The first is widely avaiable blended by a paint shop as DuPont's Centari, the latter is their Lucite product. The advantage of The single stage paint for use netters who try to keep our bricks running forever, (especially those of us in the Snowy areas) is that this stuff is easy to use and even a beginner with some trail and error can get a pretty decent finish. This paint came both as a solid and a metalic paint. The metalic is a wee bit more difficult to work with as it goes on thinner. The solid color is applied very thick, and blends into a nice smooth layer. Only minimal buffing is needed to finish this paint. the down side is that it will never be as beautiful as a properly applied 2 coat paint. Just check out the depth of the new blue or green metalic 850's. It's pretty impressive (especially if you have tried to paint your car your self before... it's not that easy).
The 2 coat system is a bit of a pain. The color layer is ultra thin, so it hides absolutely no imperfections in the doby preparation. Secondly I have found it difficult to get it on smoothly. Flat pannels work easily enough, but if you have to go around curves, you have to be very careful not to get any splatter on the other part of the pannel. Secondly you have] to finish it with a clear coat. If you mess up here you can start from scratch. This stuff is relatively easy to put on. Just make shure it goes on thick, but don't run it! Since it's clear it's a real pain to see where you have sprayed it, and how thick it is. This stuff needs some serious rubbing...power tools are a must... this goes way beyond elbow grease. I recently painted a front fender, and thought it was ruined because it did not have any gloss. Lots of running with a drill with an atttached buffing wheel got it to shine great, just be careful not to take off too much.
I'd personally love to be able to work allong side a good automotive painter. It's a pain to learn things by experimenting, and the books only give the basics. BTW I now understand why a great paint job can not cost $600, it takes a mega amount of work to prep the car to perfection, and the painting also takes special skills. I've seen many cheap paint jobs, and would not have been happy if I had produced such results. I know I'm critical of my own work, but painting a car is not something you just do, but if you live in the rust belt don't worry you'll soon have to paint again! More chances to practice.
Happy Motoring,
Andre'
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