FAQs about Series 140

  • Should I work with the body or buy a "new" car?
  • Help me interpret Volvo features.
  • Does anyone have a source for adjustable swaybars?

  • Should I work with the body or buy a "new" car?

    From: jjoy@akamai.sps.mot.com (Jennifer Joy)
    Subject: Work the body or get a new one?
    To: rwk@welchgate.welch.jhu.edu (Richard W. Kuchan)
    Date: Wed, 7 Jul 93 17:30:01 CDT

    The big question is: is it the car you are attached to, or would another car of a similar year and model do?

    If you can see letting your old car go and getting a "new to you" one, then you can come out OK. Keeping your old car is fine (which is what I did) but that is an option I would only recommend to the very emotionally attached. :-) (I plead guilty.)

    For instance, as you've already found out, you can sink lots of dollars in, but rarely can ask for that much back.

    If your old car is mechanically sound, consider buying a car with a rust-free body. This can be done, but you might want to take a knowledgeable friend along, or let someone inspect it for you (like a body shop). Then your old car becomes a part car, and the new one, a car worth working on forever.

    Another option is to find the best '73 145 you can find, perhaps one that has been restored. Then you get a good body and good mechanicals, and you can sell your old car, strip it for parts, or whatnot.

    Old and restored volvos are cheap compared to new cars. I saw one of the rarest volvos (p1900) for sale at $20K. Top p1800s go for 8-10K. I would think a really nice 145 could be found for $3-5K or less.

    Things to look for are: rust, the condition of rubber bits (seals, weatherstripping, bushing) and mechanical things (engine, tranny, suspension).

    This is a rather simplified view of the world. All I know is that buying or keep a car in serious need of help is a labor of love, and a disconnect of rational thinking (especially the financial meter). If you don't have time to spend (so you can save money) or money to burn, then you will probably not be happy. I'd recommend buying the best car you can find (still a '73 245 of course). Otherwise, there is no limit to the lengths one can go to in re-creating a car.


    Jennifer Joy sys/net admin Motorola/RISC HW Austin,TX
    jjoy@risc.sps.mot.com 512.891.8561 pgr:928.7447 #9561

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    Help me interpret Volvo features.

    From: "Ron Tewksbury" <ront@twg.com>
    Subject: re: help interpret Volvo features
    To: edm@hpvcledm.ucd.hp.com
    Cc: Swedishbricks <swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu>
    Date: Fri, 23 Jul 93 7:17:16 PDT


    I can't help much with the 240 series, but having owned most every year 140 at one time or another, I can say something about them. Horsepower ratings can be deceptive. Sure, the '71 140 has the best output, put how does that relate to driveability and reliability?

    In my opinion, God never intended SU (or Stromberg)carbs to have any smog equipment. From 1969 on, 140's came with smogger Su's or Strombergs. The SU HIF carbs that came on the cars I was unfortunate enough to own were pure misery to get running right. The 142 I had that had Strombergs was a pure delight, but that is because the previous owner had just spent $350 to have them completely overhauled, and I never had to touch them, and I didn't own the car long enough to need to adjust them (the wife drove it off a cliff - and lived! - but that's another story). The early EFI is robust and fairly simple to troubleshoot. So, even though the carberated 140's had a little more power, the EFI is a better system. It starts easier, runs cleaner and is in general more driveable.

    I'll let persons more aquainted with the 240 series discuss their pros and cons.

    Don't get me wrong, I love playing with SU's. I just prefer my SU's to come without temperature compensating needles, hot start valves, charcoal canisters and other blasphamies attached. Many years ago, Road and Track published an editorial stating that the best way for wives to keep their husbands out of trouble was to buy them an SU equipped sports car, because then all the time they spent tuning them would keep 'em out of trouble!

    Ron (I miss owning a car with SU's) Tewksbury


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    Does anyone have a source for adjustable swaybars?

    Subject: Re: Source for adjustable sway bars?
    Date: Fri, 15 Dec 1995 21:32:30 -0600
    From: mikej@midwest.net (Mike Justesen)
    To: swedishbricks@me.rochester.edu

    Alex Rosser asked:

    >I'm getting ready to do suspension upgrades on the 142, and I've decided to
    >go whole hog. New poly bushings, a set of Bilsteins, new springs and, sway
    >Since the install is going to be a pain in the butt anyway, and the range of
    >available sway bar thicknesses for 142s doesn't even begin to approach those
    >availble for Herr Doktor Tim's toys I'm thinking adjustables might be the way
    >to go. Anyone know of a manufactorer/supplier of adjustable sway bars for a 142?
    >Info on the same for 1800s and 940s would be appriciated as well(to be filed
    >away for future reference).

    Bob Griffith at bhp has all that you want for the 142.
    Ph: (610) 838-6361 TuThu
    Fax: (610) 838-6361

    Can't think of who would still have the 1800 parts, but I am sure someone does. 940: get the torch out.

    Don't read the following if you have a low tolerance for shock discussions. BTW, why not double adjustable steel body Kxxx's if you are going this far?

    Mike Justesen

    @ mikej@midwest.net                    | FORZA Rydell            @
    @                                      |                         @
    @ Crew for GW Performance 142e         | Get Well Soon Mika      @

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